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2002-01-16       Introduction
When I left home on February 16th,2002;I thougth to go from Argentina to Alaska about eigth months.Many things happened to me on the way.Some of them were great but the other ones were not good at all...After a year (in 2003) I arrived to Mexico. The original plan and my mind have been changed.I couldn't finish this trip in Alaska.I had to continue with it...I could't stop to dream!!!I decided to travel round-the-world,so I would start from Europe.Besides, I started to travel with my girlfriend, Guadalupe...About Alaska,I didn't forget it,I will go there...
2002-02-16       La Plata, Buenos Aires,Argentina
I left home at 5:30 a.m after I said good bye to my family and my friends.I left from La plata with: Violeta (my motorbike),1.550 dolars in my pocket,two t-shits, a short,two underpants,a tent and something else...I was looking forward to leave to ride.When I bought my bike, it was new but before I left home the bike's clock read: 14.498 km. I stopped in Rafaela (province of Santa Fe) at noon.I took a nap on a bench at the main park until 3:30p.m. When I wake up,my face looked like a red pepper because I got a suntan a lot. I carried on to ride on the national road 34 to Rio Hondo hot springs (Province Santiago del Estero)until night. I relaxed there and I washed my jeans,too. I met Daniel and seven or eigth bikers too,there.Then,do you know what did happen??? We drank a lot of beer until 7:30 a.m.
2002-02-17       Argentina
When I arrived to
Tucumán by the national road 9,it was rainning.I stopped at 1230 km and I asked to a family : if it was possible, I would to camp on their yard,(under a roof) next to the road. That family was The Avilas,a good people.I slept on their yard until 5 p.m.,and when I woke up ,it continued to rain but I carried on to ride (under the rain) to
Rosario de la Frontera (Province of Salta).
2002-02-18       Argentina
I slept on the street because I didn't have argentinian pesos in my pocket and I couldn't find anyone who exchange dollars to me.
The police threw me out(from the street) at 7:30 a.m. and the worst,I waited until 9:00 a.m.(the bank is open) and I couldn't exchange dollars,either. Do you know what did it happen? I payed the fuel with a ten-dollar-bill(1 dollar=1.65 argentinien pesos)... I drove down to San Salvador of Jujuy where a biker(and drugstore's owner ,too) exchanged 40 dollars to me(1 dollar=1.80 argentinian pesos),and I carried on to
La Quiaca until 9:00p.m.After I rode around the town,I met Daniel another biker and the owner of "Ragú" Restaurant. He had a Transalp of 90's...I drank a beer and I ate an steak ,in his restaurant.This evening,Daniel invited me to his home.I could take a shower and shave off, there.
2002-02-19       Bolivia
I headed for to the border at 9:00 a.m. before I checked the motor's oil and lubricated the trasmission chain. I started to apply for the administrative papers at 9:40 a.m. and I finished it, at 11:00 a.m. I just did it in 20 minutes because here in
Bolivia ,the local time is different than in
Argentina(an hour less than in my country). It was 10 o'clock!!!. I carried on to ride on a trail to
Tupiza during 4 or 5 hours...Here, the road doesnt't have any traffic signs and when I asked to someone: where is somewhere???... People couldn't say me anything... I only listened to : eh!!!, ah!!! or ahisito nomas!!!,like an answer... After all,everything is ok!!! I'm drinking a beer and eating a roast chicken, right now!!! By the way, I exchanged my argentinian pesos (1 argentinian peso=3.50 bolivianos)and 20 dollars (1 dollar=6.90 bolivianos)at the border. And I haven't bought a fuck map ,yet. Actually,I drive down like a blind man... I just listen to:"Some hours from here", "Turn on the right", "Go straight and turn left"... Well, I go ahead...
2002-02-20       Bolivia
I slept at Mitro's Hotel in
Tupiza.I payed 20 bolivianos per my room and I woke up until 11:30a.m. Then, I talked with a couple from
Misiones, Arg,they travel on a 4x4.They went to
Nepal sometime ago, and they appeared on "El Dia" newspaper...Anyway, I left at 2:00p.m. to
Potosí. I carried on 290 km or so,on a trail in the rain and it was very cold,too.The floor looked like a soap so as not to fall down,I had to ride carefully.I drove down in slow speed on some parts of the road and I had to use my feet,too.What about Violeta?...As a friend of mine(Mauricio) always says:"Like a powerful warrior"... After all ,I arrived safely to a little town named:
Vitichi , in the middle of nothingness... Here people speak "quechua" or Spanish (in a low voice) but, when I ride on Violeta,everybody has something to say about us... I got to park the bike in the town hall, near(about 30 meters) of the pigpen where I'm going to sleep tonight.I payed 15 bolivianos per my room. There was a power outage some minutes ago, then I went to looked for something to eat.I walked about 6 or 8 blocks on the back streets to a diner.There was only soup to eat and there was a lot of grime everywhere,too.The owner washed the dishes in a big tank of water with a little detergent...So, I eated cookies with pate and a beer per 9 bolivianos. I still have to ride around 90 kilometers to
Potosí, so I'm going to stay here until tomorrow...
2002-02-22       Bolivia
12:25 in the night
I finished to drive down those 90 kilometers to
Potosí... I woke up at 8:30 a.m.;I picked up Violeta to the town hall in the rain and in that moment began a hard day!!!Some parts of the road were full of mud and another ones full of big stones(they look like soccer balls).The way was very slippery,it looks like a bar of soap. I had to drive down carefully with my feet on the floor.The temperature was +8 °C. Well,at least there was a road until there,because the storm pulled the road down (there was a flood) and the water flowed quickly.The water was up till of the Violeta's fuel tank.Conclusion: I rode for 5 long hours to
Potosí. I thought to buy a back tire there, but I couldn't stay there because I got tired of the traffic and about people who didn't know anything... Some people recommed me to go to
Oruro (3750 msas). I arrived at 10:00p.m. I was so tired, and I didn't have a lot of money.I stayed at "El Turista" hostel.It cost 15 bolivianos.I had to take a shower with cold water because the fuck hot-water heater didn't work.Then, I went to eat , I drank a beer and I came back to slept...I bought a tire to Violeta. I only find a moto-cross tire and I payed 190 bolivianos.It was cheap,wasn't it?... Then, I asked (at the bike's store)about someone to set the tire and about the price.There was a mechanic near there and he used to charge 4 or 5 bolivianos...When I arrived to repair shop and I asked about to set the tire, the man wanted to charge 30 bolivianos!!!.I said him: -Of course!!!,I'll come back in a minute!!!
I rode 220km to
La Paz (Bolivia's capital), and it was madness!!!I had to drive down carefully.There was a lot of big rises and drops.Near of two million people live in a city that looks like a little town!!! It's just as well I bought the tire before. It wasn't all... when I arrived to highway, the police stopped me.They said:You were speeding along (when I rode 40 kilometers per hour because I watched the beautiful landscape).Well,they asked my driver's license...after they said: -How could we sort out the matter?- And I answered: I dodn't have money.Book me and that's all!!!- They said: -Give us money to get 20 liters of fuel,Sir!!!- I just tell them: -No, no, no...because I ride carefully and slowly.-They added: Well, have a good trip...
I arrived to
Desaguadero at night,in front of the
Titikaka (3812 msos), in the border with
Perú. I stayed in a pigpen named:"Abaroa II" per 15 bolivianos.It's one (p.m.) o'clock,right now and I finished to set the tire two minutes ago.My clock will ring at 7:30, in the morning because, I'm going to apply the administrative papers at border, tomorrow.Violeta's clock indicates 17590 km of adventure...I don't know why I am missing a lot if it isn't my first trip...
Sometimes I feel a terrible loneliness...2002-02-23       Peru
I didn't sleep good, yesterday.I woke up at 10 o'clock.I finished to apply the administrative papers quickly, then I arrived to
Perú. I rode around 200 or 300 km and I met Claudio: An italian guy,he's 23 and he's traveling round-the-world on XL600, of 1984.He crossed from
Rusia to
Alaska and he is going to visit to his cousin in
Argentina.But first, he's going to visit to
Chile.I talked with him near an hour or so, then everyone carried on our ways.I rode 150 km or so and I arrived to a little town:
Santa Rosa, it was at 4000 msos. It's 9:56p.m. in
Argentina,right now.Here,there are two hours fewer than in my country.I had to eat dinner at 5:00p.m.(at this time got dark) because the local stores and restaurant close earlier.The temperature is below zero... I don't know how many degrees exactly... but I'm sure the temperature is below zero because I saw some iced puddles on the street, a minute ago. I got out my heat suit and my gloves,too... I'm going to wear for the first time(in this trip), tomorrow.I am in a hostel named: Sagrado Corazon.I'm the only guest.The last one was here, in 2001.It cost 5 soles (about 2.50 dollars).It's rainning a lot and I'm going to sleep in a freezing room...
Fleas (or something like that) bit me ,yesterday.I got a lot of swellings in my body...I'm going to go to
Cuzco, tomorrow. I didn't drink beer today, I only drank faucet's water(after this,people said: "faucet's water is impure,it's not good to drink"...).Maybe, I'll get a terrible diarrhea!!!Well, I'll take a medicine to prevent...
2002-02-24       Peru
I was lucky!!!I didn't get a diarrhea!!!In fact,I haven't defecated,yet... It was raining all night.I slept well and I woke up at 9 o'clock.It was raining softly and the temerature was below zero.I wore my heat suit,I put oil on the chain and I carried on my way. I drove down until 2:30 and at least, I arrived to
Cuzco.
I stayed at "Imperio" hotel and I parked Violeta in a garage, because it continued to rain until the afternoon.Then I went to shopping.I bought a pair of insoles, a photo film and a little radio, because I often was bored!!!Later,I went to a cyber and I answered a lot of e-mails.My family and my friends want to know how is the trip...I went for a walk and I met some guys.They are Argentinian,too.They have traveled all over
Latin America .They do fire show at traffic lights to get some money.So,they carry on the trip...And I met two Peruvian girls,too.We will see us,tomorrow.Well, I'm going to sleep because the clock will ring at 4:30 a.m...I'm going to buy a train ticket to
Machupicchu. My bike is great!!!Everything works well in those hard 4,000 kilometers.I only changed a back tire and a return light.I didn't take a shower yesterday because It was cold!!!I haven't had a bath today , because there is not hot water in the bathroom!!!Well, my room 15 soles...
2002-02-25       Peru
I watched the clock until 2:30a.m. becuase I couldn't get to sleep and the alarm clock rang at 4:30a.m. I walked to
San Pedro train station.It was near, about 150 meters from the hotel and there was some people(only some foreigners and me) to get train tickets to
Machupicchu. The ticket office opened at 5:10a.m.Then,the person in charge said: there weren't any tickets for today.They finished.If you like to get some of them,you will go to
Guaychas train station(2kilometers from here) to get the tickets (at least , 24 hours before the train arrives).I get a "backpacker" ticket,it cost $35 dólares (122.85 soles).It isn't cheap!!!The train arrives at
Aguascalientes It does a journey into
"el camino del Inca"(Inca's way),then people takes a bus (costs $9 dollars) and the National Park's ticket costs $10 dollars...After I got this information, I picked up to Violeta and I went to see Cristo Blanco (White Crist), it's on the top of a mountain, and you can see all
Cuzco. When I was on the top...I had to tell to person in charge: I didn't have money, and I'm from Argentina...I have to dreamt to visit
Cuzco and I'd like to take some pictures.And the man said: That's o.k.!!!And I didn't pay anything.This is the second time that I got a better price as a tourist!!!I got a "backpacker" class at train station,and that is only to Peruvian people or students.But If I couldn't get that, I had to pay a "Tourist Class" ($75 dollars, a lot of money to me!!!).It was rainning in the afternoon(it's usual in this season),after it finished...I went to walk by the town.Well,I'm going to
Machupicchu,tomorrow....
2002-02-26       Peru
I woke up at 6:25 in the morning, I sprang on my feet from the bed and
wore quickly,I use to do that all the time!!!I arrived at 6:29 a.m. at train station,I sat down on my seat in double-quick time and the train left at 6:31 a.m. It was 4 hours overdue to arrive
Aguascalientes. When I was arrived there, I didn't want to pay $9 dollars for a bus and I started to walk to the ruins.After 150 meters,I carried on with two nice Chileans guys.He's Gustavo but I don't remember his girlfriend's name. We made a sacrifice to arrive on the top (an hour and a half walked).At that very moment, the water finished and we had to drink of the springs(there were a lot of them there).After that, I saw some signs whith this sentences:"Water is unfit to drink".Today, I say : this sign is a lie.They set up a good bussiness because they buy many bottles of water in a day(only $2 dollars per liter!!!), well, but it's not my bussiness.And I usually drinks water of the springs... When we arrived to National Park, we have to pay 20 dollars!!!But when people are into the Park,they forgot the cost of the ticket.It's a wonderful and mystical place!!!I was astonished and I took a lot of pictures!!!Time flew and I come back...I ran about 7 or 8 kilometers in 50 minutes to
Aguascalientes!!! The train arrived late there and I was hungry, thirsty and I blistered my foot.When I arrived, it was raining...I ate a roast chicken, I drank a beer and I enjoyed an ice cream!!!
2002-02-27       Peru
I went towards "Panamericana" (the road of the three
Americas ),today.Beaches,sun and a lot of beautiful buttocks!!!I left
Cuzco at 10: a.m., then I exchanged $100 dollars per 346 soles.I carried on to para
Abancay.First,there was asphalt on the road, then it finished and I rode on a trail to
Chalhuanca,where I stayed at "Zegarra" hostel.I could finish to ride two hours ago,but it's difficult ,right now.Workers blow up a mountain with dynamite because they are building a road!!And I waited to carry on 2 hours!!!It was raining at 5:30 and I was riding in the rain.There was a lot of mud on the road and many stones,too.When I arrived,it was pouring,it got dark,it was cold,I was wet,I was hungry and I was riding carefully to prevent a fall.There isn't hot water here,either.I didn't take a shower from
Oruro (Bolivia) for 4 or 5 days...
2002-03-05       Peru
After I have written the last news I arrived to
Nazca (The place where you can find the famous lines). There I host in “El pajonal”, where I met and chat with Herbert (the owner’s son). We went out to dinner together and drink some beer, of course previously I have taken a shower with ¡hot water!. So, when we where at the bar, and after we had drunk 3 or 4 beer, Herbert asked me if I had tasted “cachina”. I said no, an so he order a very cold jar of “cachina”. Cachina was grape juice, aparently soft, some kind of home made –NDT: patero = home made- wine, but with more water.After that we went out with “los patas” -NDT los patas = friends- (In Perú, this is the way they say friends) of Herbert to the square.There everyone was celebrating someone (Herberts friend) birthday and the "cachina" flowed a lot.After that I wasn't able even to write my name in the sand. After that I had hangover for 2 or 3 days. At the next day I arrived to
Cañete by taking the "
Panamericana" and I slept at
Cerro Azul 's beach in a very nice place -NDT = very nice place = copado-. At the next day I arrived to Huarmey and two friendly guys drove with me in theirs "tricitaxi" up to the beach and they helped me to set up camp.From there I arrived to
Pacasmayo 's port, I get inside alone at this place only because of his name, and because is placed at the departament of freedom. At the gas station I met Lucio,a 54 years guy and to his couple María. After chat for a while, they ofers me to stay at their home, and I said yes.I have arrived the sunday and now is thuesday evening.Yesterday (monday) me and lucio went to an irrigation canal for clean up Violeta, I should take the saltpetre out, this is very comon at this area.In the afternoon I took a bath in the sea, and I realized the water was cristal clear. In these days we share juice, beer and anecdotes and by living whit them I had the oportunity of tast the real Peruvian -NDT Peruana= peruvian- food, very tasty by the way.Yesterday we met 2 german guys (while we were cleaning violeta) they were traveling from
Alaska to
Ushuaia in two Dominator 650. We spent several time speaking, I in my little english and them in their little spanish. As always we have understood with sign and maps ...
Tradución:José Matías Zapiola.2002-03-08       Ecuador
I arrived to
Piura from
Pacasmayo, at this place I spent several time drinking beer and speaking with two girls from
Lima until to 2 am. From there I kept going to
Máncora, I did 500 km that day. I did a few kilometers more to arrived to the border. To get inside of
Ecuador I had to drive over an overwhelmed river which had 100 m width and more than half meter depth. There the engine didn't stops and too many people helped me to cross the river hanging me to avoid the river carried forward -NDT= para evitar que el rio me arrastrara-.After that, I got late to the "customs automotive" and they told me I have to wait until the next day, but some wilfull Ecuarodian Police officer helped me to pass through the border.After that I arrived to
Machala at 125 km of the feat,at night but dry I setted up my tent at a gas station.
Tradución:José Matías Zapiola.2002-03-09       Ecuador
It had rained the whole nigth but I was under roof. Then after I had driven the whole afternoon under the rain I reach Riobamba's city and stayed at Metro's Hotel by 5 USD, the room had prived toilet, cable TV, hot water, and the best: clean and in the middle of the city center. There I changed the oil engine.
Traducción:José Matías Zapiola2002-03-10       Ecuador
Yesterday I drove up to
Quito (
Ecuador's capital) in the afternoon I went to drink some beer, and two guys were watching my motorbike too much, so I get closer and they told me they were "yankees" - NDT yankees = US citicens- and they were traveling by motorbike too.Thay were waiting to theirs DR650 they were coming from
Panamá. They both speak a very good spanish, so they recommended their hotel, 5 USD daily - NDT = por día-, hot water and garage. After a good bath we went to a disco bar to dink some beer up to the morning. Today, before I left the gave me a gift, it was a very good and plenty of information, guide of
Central America. I left
Quito and as always I arrived to an small town under the rain, this city is
Viche, and is located in the middle of the jungle and next to a river. I took a photo in the middle of the world at the parallel 0º0'0'' with one foot at the south hemisphere and one foot at the north.Tomorrow I'll drive up to
Puerto Esmeralda, to deal with the boarding process, and to find out the cost. If the cost is too high I think i'll go to
Colombia and I hope the luck come with me!!!
Tradución:José Matías Zapiola.2002-03-12       Ecuador
When I arrived to
Puerto Esmeralda they told me that the maritimal traffic only flows from
Panamá to
Ecuador, and there were only charge traffic, no passengers.They recommended me come back 600 km up to
Guayaquil and perhaps there everythings would be easier. In my trips I hate come back over my path an that bother me a lot!.At last I took the road to
Colombia. To be honest I was very worried because of the tought about don't know my future at that country, because of their political and social situation. Furthemore no one has told me "wonders" about
Colombia. So, I drove 550 or 600 km in hot, cold, jungle and beatiful mountains. At night I stayed in a very good hotel that cost 5 USD, hot water and more, this hotel was in
Tulcan,at the border with
Colombia, but in
Ecuador's side.
Tradución:José Matías Zapiola.2002-03-13       Colombia
I went into "the enigmatic
Colombia" this morning...
I only saw a lot of soldiers, many beautiful girls and wonderful landscapes!!! I'm staying in a cheap hotel (I payed 7000 colombian pesos/ 1 dollar= 2150 colombian pesos).This little town named
El Bordo, and I am going to go on my way to
Cali, tomorrow (if it won't be rain),then I will go to the north of the country...
2002-03-14       Colombia
I rode from
El Bordo to
La Paila.I ate a delicious food and I stayed in a familiy's house.I was there until today.I woke up at 10 o'clock because some sad and terrible "boleros" ( a kind of music from Latin America) disturbed my sweet dreams.After I spread lubricating oil on the bike's chain,I went to the north.I'm recently using to go in that direction.Well, I carried on the
Panamericana road to
Medellin and I met Fernando: a colombian guy.He invited me to drink a beer with potatoes chips.We talked a lot, then when we asked the check,he didn't let me to pay and said me:
"Don't worry.Be happy.You are in Colombia"...We came back to the road.Fernando had an Honda 750v (1985) and I thought he was smoking pot because he was speeding along...We said bye-bye and we carried on different ways...It was rainning too much when I arrived to
Medellin.I rode about 30 or 40 kilometers to the north on the same rode (
Panamericana ) and I stopped in a city, where I am right now.I payed a cheap room with three wool blankets because it's cold tonigth.I think I am about 3000 meters over the sea, on the top of the mountains!!!By the way, there are a lot of mountains in this country...
2002-03-18       Colombia
I carried on to a town but I don't remember its name.I was at the side of the road 25
and I slept in a good hotel, there was a restaurant at the downstairs.I ate and drank some beers there.It wasn't cold there.The weather was great about 30 degrees centigrade.I went past
Cartagena,then
Barranquilla...It's beautiful but there is a lot of traffic, plenty of noise and I was under stress so, I countinued my trip to
Santa Marta, in the seashore of
Caribbean Sea.I stayed at "Bahia Blanca" hotel and I payed 1000 colombian pesos per day (about 4.50 dollars).I arrived here on Saturday in the afternoon...today is Monday and I'm thinking to stay here until Friday...
I want to rest,sunbathe,drink beer coconut's juice and enjoy the Caribbean sea!!!I was at the beach and I met a tanned girl,she was 24.We talked for the sake of it. Suddenly ,she asked me if it was possible that I teach her how to swim...Then we kissed us.We played about an hour on the sand and then I asked her: -Would you like to go to my room?... At the beach she told me, that she was a hairdresser...at my room she told me, she was a prostitute and of course she expected to pay her service!!!I said her:-Come on, baby...You have to pay my service,I'm a good lover!!! At the end, everything was o.k.Nobody payed anything!!!We took a shower together and then, we said: good-bye!!!...Then I went to drink some beers in front of the beach.When I came back to the hostel I met to Claudia, a middle-aged woman.We had dinner and slept together!!!
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